Tuesday, October 9, 2012

Checkin' your credentials - stay calm folks.


There it is… that wipeout. It's usually nothing painful, just a normal slip. It takes some time to get used to a board, and us as surfers expect that we can automatically hop on any board and go out there and rip it up. So what do you do? You've spent the past few hours telling your friends or traveling companions about how much you love surfing, and that it's your favorite hobby. They're all sitting back on the beach watching you, and have been watching you for the 20 minutes it took you to paddle out. You're assuming that they're thinking "he must not be that good, and this isn't what surfing looks like in the movies"! The worst part is that cute girl that you promised you would teach how to surf, you just know that she's diverted her attention from you to the tall, dark and handsome dudes playing soccer on the beach. 

This has happened to the best of us, and will continue to happen. It's been said that it takes over 3,000 hours of a certain activity to command a mastery of it, and unless you've been surfing that long, you probably fall off your board or catch a wave wrong every once and a while. Morale of the story : RELAX! Surfing isn't a spectators sport, it's for your own personal enjoyment. Don't let your mind run crazy wondering who's watching or judging your moves when your in the water. If anyone gives you a hard time, laugh it off, and tell them the waves "are super mushy out there". Or grab a longer board and have some fun helping your friends catch some waves, they'll thank you for it and forget all about your wipeouts in the line up. As stated earlier, we as surfers sometimes forget the golden rule; surfing is meant to be fun, so never take it too seriously.

Keep shredding those barrels my friends, keep shredding


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